Bottled Plums, Two Ways

Each peach pear plum, I've got a red thumb. Actually, it's my whole hand. Actually, it's both my hands, to be precise. You see, a friend has a tree full of blood plums. Her kids hate them, so she gives them to us. On Sunday, we received an enormous tubful, and I've been busy all week. I've made bottled plums and poached plums, plum jam and plum sponge, and this afternoon I'm borrowing a dehydrator to see how that goes.

What's not to love about preserves? I peek into my great-grandfather's cupboard, purpose-built for preserves, and see row upon row of glowing fruit. Here is sunshine in a bottle. Here, too, is my link to all the women who went before me, stewing, bottling, and putting up food against lean times. I love being part of that history, and love the sense of abundance that is the result of frugality and hard work. I see so many fruit trees going to waste; we let the birds eat them, or the fruit fall to the ground. Preserves tackle this excess of seasonal fruit, and offer something to look forward to in winter.

On the top shelf of my great-grandfather's cupboard, we have jam. Apricot jam and plum jam, lemon suck and quince marmalade and even beetroot relish rest in the dark, quietly maturing. On the second shelf stand large jars of applesauce, ready for apple cake or apple dappy or a little person's breakfast. And now, plums. Plums in wine, plums in syrup, plums whole, plums quartered. Plums plums plums plums plums. Hence the hands.

What follows are two ways to bottle plums. Think of them not as precise recipes, but as suggestions. Measurements are approximate, as the ratio of plums to jars varies depending on whether the plums are large or small; and whether you use them whole, halved or quartered. Whole plums take up more space by weight; quartered plums pack tight. Of course, adjust the measurements to suit the jars you have. Whole plums are perhaps best packed into No. 31 jars, as they're nice and wide; but as my No. 31s are full of apples, I used No. 27s instead.

The first suggestion is for plums in red wine. This is a lovely thing to have on hand on a cold winter's night. Gently warmed and served with a dollop of thick cream or even yogurt, the plums are very soothing.

Second is simpler and more frugal: plums in a light sugar syrup. These are the plums my kids eat for breakfast, or I bake into a sponge on a chilly autumn day. I use a sugar syrup because our friend's plums are quite sharp, but you can preserve them in fruit juice or even water if you wish. If you have a sweet tooth, make the syrup heavier by adding another cup of sugar. Keep it plain, or slip a few cloves, a cinnamon stick or a vanilla pod into each jar to infuse the plums with extra flavour.

However you make them, they will be delicious. When summer is a distant memory and all is dull and grey, reach for a jar of ruby red plums. As a testament to your industry and the generosity of friends, nothing could be finer.

Bottled Blood Plums, Two Ways (Fowlers System) 1: Whole Plums in Red Wine - 3 kg blood plums, wiped clean of orchard dust and washed - aromatics: whole cardamom pods, cinnamon bark, whole cloves, star anise, vanilla beans or orange zest, as preferred - 2 bottles red wine - ½ cup sugar, or to taste Simmer the sugar with a bottle of red wine until the sugar has dissolved. Take off the heat, add the second bottle of wine and 500ml water, and leave to cool. While it is cooling, soak the rubber rings in warm water for 15 minutes or so. Wash six No. 27 jars and six No. 3 lids in hot soapy water, and rinse well. When the rings are ready, slip a ring over the rim of each jar, ensuring the ring is not twisted. Choose your aromatics: a long strip of orange peel or a stick of cinnamon or a few whole cardamom pods or whatever takes your fancy, and place one or several into each bottle. You may wish to flavour different bottles with different aromatics. Prick each plum twice (once each side) with a darning needle. This will prevent them from exploding. Pack into bottles. As you're packing, periodically shake the bottle, or bump it against the palm of your hand, to ensure the best pack. Top up each bottle with the preserving liquid to 1.2cm of the rim. Then follow the final instructions. 2: Quartered Plums in Light Sugar Syrup - 3 kg blood plums, wiped clean of orchard dust and washed - aromatics: cinnamon bark, whole cloves, star anise or vanilla beans, as preferred - 1½ cups sugar Simmer the sugar with 2 cups of water, stirring gently, until the sugar has dissolved completely. Take off the heat and add another 2½ cups of water. Leave to cool. While the liquid is cooling, soak the rubber rings in warm water for 15 minutes or so. Wash six No. 20 jars and six No. 3 lids in hot soapy water, and rinse well. When the rings are ready, slip a ring over the rim of each jar, ensuring the ring is not twisted. Choose your aromatics; I made one batch with cloves and another with cinnamon. Place your aromatics into each bottle. Halve then quarter the plums, pitting as you go. Pack the plum quarters, periodically shaking the bottle, or bumping it against the palm of your hand, to ensure the best pack. Leave a 1.2cm headspace. Fill with your chosen preserving liquid to 1.2cm from the rim. Check for air bubbles, and ease them out with a flexible butter knife or a packing stick. Top up with a little extra liquid, if necessary. Then follow the final instructions. Finally: Fit the lid, and slip the clip over the lid. Say the last sentence three times fast. Place in your preserver. I have the Fowler's Simple Natural Preserving Kit, which fits six No. 27 or No. 20 bottles; or five No. 31 bottles. Cover with cold water, turn on, then turn off after an hour. If it comes to the boil during the hour, do not let it boil for longer than five minutes. Remove the jars from the preserver, using those tricky tongs, and place onto a wooden board or a thick pile of newspapers. Press down in the centre of each lid to ensure a good seal. Leave to stand for 12 to 18 hours, then remove the clips. Label the jars – include the date! – and put them into a low dark cupboard, preferably in a cool part of the house. Preserves keep for a couple of years, but they are best used within one year. After a year, the colour and texture begin to deteriorate. (Local: plums, wine. Not local: sugar, spices.)